Anacortes Exterior Why March Point Puts a Deck to the Test
March Point sits out on open water, which means homes here take weather straight on in a way that inland Anacortes lots don't. Salt-laden air off the surrounding bays speeds up corrosion on anything metal, wind-driven rain finds its way into gaps that would stay dry a few miles inland, and the long gray stretch of fall and winter keeps every horizontal surface damp enough, long enough, for moss and algae to take hold. A deck built without that in mind might look fine the first summer and start showing problems — soft spots, rusted fasteners, slick green film — within a couple of wet seasons.
That's the backdrop for every composite deck we build out here. The material choice matters, but so does the framing underneath it, the fasteners holding it together, and the airflow moving beneath it. Get any one of those wrong and Skagit County's climate will find the weak point.
What Composite Decking Actually Is
Composite decking is a blend of wood fiber and plastic, formed into boards that look like wood but don't behave like it. Done right, it resists rot, doesn't need staining or sealing, and holds up to standing moisture far better than solid wood. Done with the wrong product or a rushed install, it can still trap moisture, discolor, or warp — composite isn't magic, it's just a different set of trade-offs than wood.
Capped vs. Uncapped Composite
Most composite boards sold today are "capped" — they have a plastic shell wrapped around the wood-plastic core, which is what actually gives them their stain and moisture resistance. Uncapped composite (or capped only on the top face) is cheaper but leaves more of the board exposed to the elements, and in a climate that stays damp for months at a stretch, that's the corner we don't recommend cutting. We install fully capped boards on March Point projects specifically because of how much moisture this location sees.
Composite vs. Wood vs. PVC
Homeowners usually land on composite after weighing it against pressure-treated wood or cellular PVC. Here's the honest comparison we walk people through:
| Material | Upfront Cost | Maintenance | Moisture Behavior | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated wood | Lowest | Annual cleaning, periodic staining/sealing | Absorbs water; needs re-sealing to fight rot and cupping | Budget-first projects, owners willing to maintain it |
| Capped composite | Moderate to higher | Occasional washing, no staining or sealing | Sheds water at the surface; core is protected by the cap | Owners who want long-term, low-upkeep performance |
| Cellular PVC | Highest | Occasional washing | Fully synthetic, doesn't absorb moisture at all | Waterfront or extreme-exposure sites, different look/feel |
We don't push one material on every job. If a homeowner wants real wood and understands the upkeep, we'll build that. What we won't do is install a product in a spot where we know the climate will outpace its maintenance schedule — that's a callback waiting to happen, and it's not fair to the homeowner either.
What a Correct Composite Deck Install Actually Involves
The Substructure Comes First
The composite boards get the attention because they're what you see, but the framing underneath is what determines whether the deck lasts. Joists, beams, and posts need to be sized and spaced correctly for the board span, and in a wet climate like this one, that framing lumber needs proper ground clearance, flashing at the ledger board where the deck meets the house, and joist tape or a comparable barrier to keep fasteners from wicking moisture into the wood. A ledger board that's flashed wrong is one of the most common ways water gets into a house through a deck, and it's invisible until there's a problem.
Fastening and Board Spacing for Wet Climates
Composite boards expand and contract with temperature and moisture more than people expect. Gapping between boards has to account for that movement, and it has to be consistent — too tight and boards can buckle when they swell; too loose and it looks sloppy and traps debris. We use fasteners rated for the specific composite product going down, typically hidden clip systems that avoid face-screwing, which keeps water from pooling in screw heads and keeps the deck surface clean-looking longer.
Drainage and Under-Deck Ventilation
This is the part that gets skipped most often and matters most in a place like March Point. Airflow underneath the deck keeps the framing dry between rain events. That means grading the ground below to shed water away from the house, keeping skirting or under-deck areas from sealing off airflow completely, and making sure the deck doesn't create a low spot where water sits against the foundation. A deck that traps moisture underneath it is working against the house, not for it.
Railings, Stairs, and Permit Considerations
Most raised decks need railings, and code requirements around railing height, baluster spacing, and stair geometry apply regardless of decking material. Skagit County and the City of Anacortes have their own permitting requirements depending on the deck's height, size, and whether it's attached to the house — we handle that paperwork as part of the job rather than leaving a homeowner to figure it out. Railing material is its own decision: composite and aluminum railing systems both hold up well against salt air, where painted wood railings need more frequent upkeep to avoid peeling and checking.
Our Process, Start to Finish
Every March Point deck project follows roughly the same sequence:
- Site visit and assessment — we look at the existing structure (if there is one), the ledger connection to the house, drainage around the area, and sun/wind exposure specific to that lot.
- Written estimate — a clear scope of work and price range based on size, framing needs, railing choice, and decking product, no surprise add-ons buried in fine print.
- Permitting — we pull whatever permits the project requires before work starts, not after.
- Demo and framing — removal of any old structure, then framing built or reinforced to current span and flashing standards.
- Decking, railing, and stairs installed — with the fastening and gapping approach appropriate to the specific product.
- Final walkthrough — we go over the finished deck with the homeowner, including basic care, before calling the job done.
Living with a Composite Deck in This Climate
Composite is low-maintenance, not no-maintenance. In a climate that grows moss on roofs, siding, and walkways, decks aren't exempt. A little routine care goes a long way toward keeping the surface safe and looking good:
- Sweep off leaves, needles, and organic debris regularly — trapped moisture under debris is what gives moss and algae a foothold on composite surfaces.
- Wash the deck a couple of times a year with a soft-bristle brush, mild soap, and water; a pressure washer on a low setting works but should never be aimed directly and close at the board surface.
- Keep gutters and downspouts near the deck clear so runoff isn't dumping extra water onto or under the decking.
- Check railing posts and stair connections annually for looseness — fasteners work slightly over time with temperature swings.
- Trim back vegetation that shades the deck for long stretches, since shaded, damp areas are where moss establishes first.
- Address any standing water or slow-draining spots on the deck surface early rather than waiting for it to become a slip hazard.
Cost Factors to Expect
Composite deck pricing varies with size, framing condition, and product selection more than almost anything else. Rough factors that move the number, without pretending to give a fixed price for a project we haven't seen:
| Factor | Why It Affects Price |
|---|---|
| Deck size and shape | More square footage and more corners/angles both add material and labor |
| Existing structure condition | A full tear-out and new framing costs more than building on sound existing framing |
| Composite product tier | Fully capped, higher-end boards cost more upfront than lighter-duty composite |
| Railing and stair complexity | Cable, glass, or composite railing systems cost more than basic baluster railing |
| Height and access | Elevated decks and difficult site access add framing, safety, and labor time |
| Permitting requirements | Larger or higher decks may trigger engineering review, which adds time and cost |
Why a Crew That Already Works March Point Matters
Building a deck that holds up here isn't about a special March Point technique — it's about not skipping the steps that a milder inland climate might forgive. A crew that regularly works this area already knows to flash the ledger properly, size the ventilation underneath, and pick fastener and hardware grades that won't corrode early from salt exposure. That's less guesswork and fewer surprises for the homeowner, and it means the deck is built once, correctly, instead of needing early repairs because the marine environment wasn't accounted for from the start.
If you're planning a new composite deck or replacing an aging one on March Point, we're happy to take a look and talk through what your specific site needs — no pressure, no obligation. Fill out the form below for a free estimate.